Located in the luxurious ESPACIO The Jewel of Waikīkī, Mugen is a hidden gem. Recognized for its fine dining concept, the eatery is one of two restaurants on Oʻahu that’s rated five stars by the prestigious Forbes Travel Guide.
Created by executive chef Colin Sato, the eatery’s new tasting menus give customers the ability to curate their own innovative dinner experience. If you don’t want the entire tasting menu, don’t worry — the menu items (starters, main dishes and desserts) are also available for individual ordering.
Diners can choose from three new tasting menus — Jade, Emerald or Sapphire. The five-course Jade menu ($175) includes an amuse bouche, starter, two main dishes and a dessert (four wine pairings available for an additional $100). Meanwhile, the six-course Emerald menu ($200) includes an amuse bouche, two starters, two mains and a dessert (five wine pairings available for an additional $115). The Sapphire menu ($220) is the most lavish option, comprising an amuse bouche, two starters, chef’s seasonal nigiri, two mains and a desert (six wine pairings available for an additional $135). Yet, since it’s the most inclusive, it gives diners the chance to try a variety of dishes from the menu.
At a recent media event, we were invited to try the Sapphire menu. Dishes incorporate local, seasonal ingredients when possible, such as ‘Ewa corn from Aloun Farms and heirloom carrots and radishes from Kualoa Ranch.
The dinner began with an amuse bouche of homemade brioche with red shiso butter, and an elevated “poke and caviar” dish.
For starters, I opted for scallops with Chinese black bean and makrut lime orzo with ‘Ewa corn curry, and Kona kampachi with wasabi nasturtium puree, green apple ponzu and trout roe. The scallops were succulent and juicy, and the kampachi was refreshing, but it was that green apple ponzu that I wanted more of — it was the perfect balance of sweet and tart.
The wagyu beef tartare with egg yolk gel, black garlic and potato pave was also highly recommended, due to its savory flavor and incredible presentation.
The chef’s seasonal nigiri selection will change but comes with three pieces. Our selection included ‘ahi with caviar, shima aji with lime zest and shiso, and uni gunkan with crispy salmon skin. While all three nigiri were heavenly, the uni gunkan with crispy salmon skin was my favorite because of the contrasting textures. The luscious, creamy uni was nicely offset by the crunchy, crispy salmon skin.
Seafood mains include two options — shima aji with smoked turnip, sake braised spinach and saffron yuzu dashi, or Maine lobster. The majority of our group opted for the lobster dish, which included truffle nori risotto, hon shimeji mushroom and parmesan foam.
The lobster was buttery and succulent, while the risotto had the perfect chew, thanks to the abundant mushrooms. Meanwhile, the parmesan foam added a mildly cheesy flavor.
Other main dishes include Marrunga Marble lamb with brown butter ‘ulu puree, pineapple chimichurri and coconut aji Amarillo sauce; maple leaf duck breast with Ho Farm tomato; SRF wagyu shortrib with miso gochujang vinaigrette; and Toriyama A5 wagyu with mochi rice and yuzu kosho broth.
The Toriyama A5 wagyu will delight steak afficionados. Each piece boasted that melt-in-your-mouth texture and beefy flavor.
The Marrunga Marble lamb entrée is highly recommended by Sato, who says it’s sourced from Australia. The fine, marbled lamb has a more subtle, less gamey flavor, while its accompanying sauce boasts the robust flavors of Peruvian chili peppers.
The tasting menu concludes with your choice of dessert — Mocha Blend #17-1230, calamansi and honey, and frutti di bosco. Calamansi and honey is an elevated take on key lime pie, and features graham, toasted meringue, mango, kiwi and local calamansi. Frutti di bosco is similar to a raspberry mousse with fresh berries. These fruity options are ideal if you want something more refreshing and lighter after an indulgent meal.
Mocha Blend #17-1230 is a chocolate “latte” mousse with flavors of pineapple, chamomile and cinnamon. It’s inspired by the soft brown Pantone hue, and its number in the dessert’s name is the actual color called Mocha Mousse. The dessert is fittingly served with a Mocha Mousse tea, a fragrant combination of black tea, dandelion root, organic vanilla, cocoa and cinnamon. It offsets the mousse’s richness, and if the tea didn’t have caffeine, I would have easily polished off the entire pot by myself.
CONTACT
Mugen Waikīkī
ESPACIO The Jewel of Waikīkī
2452 Kalākaua Ave., Honolulu
808-377-2247
Mugenwaikiki.com
Instagram: @mugenwaikiki
Open for dinner 5:30-8:30 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays
Kelli Shiroma Braiotta can be reached at kelli@alohastatedaily.com.
