Nami Kaze’s omakase tasting experience — cheekily called “Omakaze” — isn’t your typical sushi-centric chef’s choice dinner. The restaurant, headed by chef Jason Peel, features a farm-focused approach to cooking and showcases a variety of locally sourced ingredients.
Staying true to the restaurant’s mission, Omakaze is designed to highlight a variety of local products from Hawaiʻi’s farmers and purveyors through an 11-course journey. It costs $150 per person, and we definitely left stuffed.
The eatery’s Omakaze is held at the sushi counter, which seats around 11 people. The next omakase tasting dinners are at 5:30 p.m. on July 23 and 24; diners can make reservations via Open Table.
The omakase begins with lighter dishes — Hokkaido scallop paired with finger lime from Ho Farms, followed by Ichiban oysters. The scallops are served with pineapple vinegar and pineapple mint, oregano, olives and bell peppers, resulting in a combo of sweet yet bright flavors.
“We use Hauʻula tomatoes to make a chili oil tomato granita,” Peel says, of the second course.
The granita has as a crunchy texture reminiscent of shave ice, and is equally cold and refreshing.
Next comes a Hawaiian kanpachi with kare kare orange and local shiso from Mari’s Garden. I enjoy kanpachi’s firm, slightly sweet flavor, and it tasted even better with the bright mignonette.
“I use the stems of the shiso to make a mignonette with pink peppercorn, chilies and orange juice,” Peel explains.
The fourth course — the nigiri course — is one of my favorites. It features Hawaiian big-eye tuna that’s coated in housemade tare and topped with shaved Hudson Valley foie gras and a little bit of crispy rice. The ‘ahi tastes fresh and the shaved foie enhances its umami flavor. For those who don’t love foie gras, don’t worry — the shavings make it easier to eat. The bits of crispy rice make this course especially addictive.
“I like fat with ‘ahi,” Peel says. “One of my favorites is ‘ahi with uni.”
When Kauaʻi prawn is included in an omakase, it usually is served in the form of nigiri or tempura. Nami Kaze’s version is a crispy fritter filled with prawn mousse. It’s crispy, fried exterior is reminiscent of an andagi, but with a creamy shrimp filling. It’s one of my favorite bites from the evening.
“We did a prawn mousse with a little Thai spices, kaffir lime, lemongrass, chilies, yuzu gel and teriyaki gel; the sauce is a light hollandaise,” Peel says.
Next comes a vegetable course — radish cake, made from Gava Grow radishes, that Peel pairs with a smoked trout roe, mixed with soy, vinegar, chili crispies and chili oil. The radish cake is topped with sea asparagus. This course packs some heat, due to the chili crispies and chili oil, but it makes the veggie dish memorable.
The next course was a meaty one — an oxtail croquette was topped with beef tartare and ginger scallion. Each bite was an explosion of flavors and textures — the creamy, colder tartare contrasts nicely against the warm, crispy croquette.
The following dishes were equally meaty — Mountain View Dairy Farm pork spare ribs braised with natto, and rack of lamb two ways. The latter comprises lamb loin and bone; the bone is glazed with a balsamic and honey glaze, while the loin is glazed with the eatery’s cilantro kosho. Natto lovers will enjoy the spare ribs. The lamb was on the gamier side, but the sticky, sweeter honey glaze offsets it nicely.
“I wanted soup and rice,” Peel says. “We did a clam (soup) with Mrs. Cheng’s tofu. There’s a little extra smoked tomato in there, too; I love the smoked tomatoes we make. They enhance the flavor.”
The rice dish features a porridge with Small Kine Farms mushrooms that have been cooked in smoked butter with a little egg jam and ikura zuke. Both the soup and porridge boast a delightfully smoky flavor; the latter reminded us of a gourmet jook. It was hearty, thick and comforting, especially with the textures from the ikura and mushrooms.
The meal concluded with a light, refreshing dessert in the form of vanilla panna cotta with mango puree and a sable cookie on top. The luscious, creamy panna cotta pairs nicely with the bright mango.
Pro tip: break the petite sable cookie into pieces so you can enjoy the panna cotta with a buttery, crumble topping.
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CONTACT
Nami Kaze Hawaiʻi
1135 N. Nimitz Hwy., Honolulu
808-888-6264
Namikaze.com
Instagram: @namikazehawaii
Omakaze is currently offered at 5:30 p.m. on Wednesdays and Thursdays
Kelli Shiroma Braiotta can be reached at kelli@alohastatedaily.com.
