Two words: edamame hummus.
Who would have thought one of my new favorite dishes at 855-ALOHA, located in Romer House Waikīkī, would come from the eatery’s new vegetable platter?
855-ALOHA — which rebranded from its former izakaya dining concept — recently launched a new menu, helmed by new executive chef Brad Dodson. The eatery is named in honor of Hawaiʻi’s historic blue payphones, and the theme is prevalent throughout the restaurant’s décor and its menu. You can now even spot a phone booth near the restaurant’s entrance; diners are encouraged to “call home” via fun photo opportunities at the booth.
Portugal-raised Dodson brings more than 15 years in the hospitality industry to the eatery. He previously worked at Brick Fire Tavern and Mud Hen Water, and honed his skills under the guidance of notable chefs like Ed Kenney. Dodson strives to reflect Hawaiʻi’s melting pot of cultures through his cooking, which showcases a blend of classical and modern techniques.
The eatery's new menu is inspired by potlucks — and the many varieties of dishes you’ll find at them — along with nostalgic flavors. You’ll find specific items that pay homage to local eateries, like the Hammah Pork Chops, which are inspired by the signature dish at Side Street Inn, and the kimchi fried rice, which is a nod to 8 Fat Fat 8 Bar & Grille. Other dishes are inspired by Hawaiʻi staples like garlic shrimp trucks and kalbi ribs.
The dining experience begins with a complimentary party shot called Uhilani. This amuse bouche is a refreshing concoction of ube foam, coconut cream, pineapple juice, and toasted coconut flakes. It’s designed to stimulate diners’ palates for the feast ahead, and is intended to be taken as a shot.
When asked about some of his favorite dishes on the menu, Dodson is quick to mention Auntie’s gau gee ($15), which features crispy mushroom wontons with sambal and a “secret sauce.”
“There’s a little dive bar — 8 Fat Fat 8 — that does really awesome Chinese food,” he says. “I go there on my days off and I’ll sit at the bar in the afternoon and I’ll get the gau gee. This is my version of it; it’s a vegetarian version. It pays homage to that version, though; I love that spot.
“I love meaty mushrooms; I think they’re really versatile,” he adds. “Sometimes, the pork filling or meat filling is a little heavy. I feel like this (version) is a nice compromise.”
The “secret sauce” is a creamy yuzu aioli, which contrasts nicely with the wontons’ crispy exterior and savory mushroom filling.
The Kimono roll ($23) is the bestselling sushi roll, and includes crab, tuna and kewpie mayo. It’s one of the few dishes from the eatery’s previous menu — but it now has a new name. We appreciate the proportionate seafood-to-rice ratio.
The poke nori wraps ($24) — sushi rice, spicy ‘ahi and nori wraps — are also fun to share, as diners are invited to create their own hand rolls.
The Aloha platter ($22) features a fresh, flavorful array of vegetables. It includes edamame hummus, beet poke, snap peas with sesame paste, cucumber with sweet chilies and Maui onions and citrus-cumin roasted carrots with coconut yogurt. Taro chips are served on the side.
The beet poke is refreshing, as the beets are tossed in a citrus vinegar. The soft, bite-sized carrots pair nicely with the creamy coconut yogurt. But the star is the edamame hummus, which boasts a slight spice and deliciously nutty, creamy texture.
Meanwhile, the New York strip features a delectable nori crust and is served with crispy shiitake mushrooms, scallions, ponzu sauce and wasabi. You can take your steak to the next level by adding garlic shrimp (additional $9).
The dessert selection includes chocolate haupia pie ($12) — inspired by the legendary selection from Ted’s Bakery, of course — pineapple upside down mochi cake ($14) and 855-Sundae ($55). Designed to serve two to four people, the latter is a massive concoction served in a volcano hula tiki bowl with fire. It includes Il Gelato, honey toast, whipped cream, crushed pineapples, li hing syrup, boba pearls and banana brulee.
“The volcano tiki bowl is huge, but it’s really fun if you have a party of friends,” Dodson says.
The sundae sounds intriguing, but since our group is a party of two, we decide to hold off the sundae until next time.
The pineapple upside down mochi cake ($14) maintains that signature mochi texture — slightly crispy edges with a delectably chewy middle. It’s topped with caramelized pineapples and vanilla gelato (from Il Gelato), and is a nice option if you prefer fruitier desserts that aren’t overly sweet.
855-ALOHA is open nightly from 5 to 10 p.m.; first seating is at 5 p.m. Guests can take advantage of complimentary valet with three-hour validation when they dine at the restaurant.
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CONTACT
855-ALOHA
Romer House Waikīkī
415 Nāhua St., Honolulu
855aloha.com
Instagram: @855aloha
Open daily, 5-10 p.m.
Complimentary valet with three-hour validation
Kelli Shiroma Braiotta can be reached at kelli@alohastatedaily.com.
