Tucked away within Buho Cocina y Cantina in Waikīkī, Sushi Fukurou — which opened in 2022 — is known for its affordable price point (it’s always $90) and fusion omakase experience. The omakase has two seatings at 5:30 and 8 p.m. Tuesdays to Fridays.
We were recently invited to try the eatery’s summer menu, which is available until the middle of September.
The 12-course omakase always features seasonal ingredients, and many of the courses in this summer menu are light and refreshing.
The omakase starts with tako with watercress, followed by the eatery’s signature dish. The tako is paired with the eatery’s signature ume sesame dressing that’s drizzled on top, garnished with sesame seeds, bonito flakes and kizami shiso leaf. Underneath the tako is a bed of locally grown baby watercress that’s blanched and marinated in dashi. The dish overall boasts a strong ume flavor, thanks to the dressing.
Sushi Fukurou’s signature dish is its zuke maguro nigiri, but this isn’t your traditional nigiri. Sushi rice is wrapped with shoyu-marinated bluefin tuna (from Nagasaki), tied neatly with a garlic chive, and topped with a quail egg, wasabi oil and bubu arare.
“There’s a drop of wasabi oil for spice, and the tiny rice cracker balls on top have a nice crunch,” says chef Miki Yanagihara.
Next come amberjack with deep-fried ogo and takabe, or yellow striped butterfish. The local amberjack are brushed with shoyu and finished with a spritz of yuzu oil, and garnished with locally grown limu.
“The yuzu oil also has a nice aromatic smell,” notes Yanagihara. “The deep-fried ogo adds a bit of saltiness to pair with the kampachi.”
The yellow-striped butterfish is lightly seared to release its natural oil, and according to Yanagihara, it’s peak season right now for these small, silvery fish.
“They’re one of my favorite summer fishes,” she says. “It’s garnished with a sprinkle of red Hawaiian sea salt topped with ginger scallion to balance the oiliness.”
This locally caught ama ebi (shrimp) is prepared two ways. The nigiri is brushed with calamansi ponzu sauce and topped with smoked trout caviar. It’s paired with a crispy ama ebi head, which is deep-fried in potato starch, lightly salted and served in a ponzu sauce that can be used for dipping. shrimp duo.
Of the two, I’m partial to the nigiri, which boasts a pleasing smoky flavor. The trout roe caviar delivers a nice, popping texture that pairs nicely with the tender shrimp.
The crispy rice topped with spicy hamachi tartare is one of my favorite courses. It features a base of deep-fried sushi rice — complete with a crispy exterior and spongy, mochi-like interior — topped with hamachi yellowtail mixed with spicy sauce, wasabi guacamole, habanero masago, micro cilantro and garlic flower petals.
The wasabi guacamole is really wasabi mixed with avocado. The whole combination of flavors and textures worked really well in this dish, and I wouldn’t have minded two more pieces.
Next comes another favorite — chutoro with caviar. This medium fatty tuna from Nagasaki is brushed with shoyu and garnished with golden Kaluga caviar. The buttery, fatty fish has a creamy texture that’s complemented nicely by the saltier, briny caviar.
In the words of Yanagihara: “Chutoro, caviar — classic combo.”
Wagyu is always a highlight, and this course features A5 Miyazaki wagyu presented in three ways — one with Hokkaido uni, shoyu and kizami wasabi on top; one in homemade shiso butter and topped with bubu arare and lime zest; and one sprinkled with black lava sea salt and garnished with deep-fried shallots.
All boasted that buttery texture that’s a hallmark of A5 wagyu. While it was difficult to pick a favorite, I especially enjoyed the A5 wagyu topped with sea salt and fried shallots best. Its simple presentation allowed the beefy flavor to shine, and the crispy shallots added crunch.
The next course is perfect for summer. Somen noodles from Japan are paired with the eatery’s homemade somen tsuyu, or soup base. It’s served with zuke-marinated tomatoes and garnished with micro greens, and served in an ice bowl.
“It’s literally ice cold, and ensures that the somen noodles are cold and refreshing, perfect for summer,” Yanagihara says. She encourages diners to be careful when lifting the slightly slippery bowl to sip the broth.
The somen is followed by grilled anago (saltwater eel) — paired with homemade anago tare, or sweet eel sauce, and garnished with locally grown finger lime — and a torotaku hand roll. The finger lime delivers a refreshing, popping burst of lime juice that complements the anago tare nicely. Meanwhile, torotaku (toro and takuan) hand rolls never disappoint, due to their contrasting creamy-and-crunchy textures.
Dessert is in the form of churros dusted with kinako sugar and served with Roselani vanilla ice cream drizzled with matcha-infused honey and topped with sea salt. It was the perfect sweet-and-salty ending: the Japanese roasted soybean powder has a nutty flavor that’s reminiscent of peanut butter, and the sea salt sprinkle balances the dessert’s overall sweetness.
Not only is the dessert tasty, but it’s also a cheeky way to pay homage to the omakase’s location — it’s within a rooftop Mexican restaurant, after all.
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CONTACT
Sushi Fukurou
2250 Kalākaua Ave. Ste. 525, Honolulu
Sushifukurou.com
Instagram: @sushifukurou
Two seatings 5:30 and 8 p.m., Tuesdays-Fridays
Kelli Shiroma Braiotta can be reached at kelli@alohastatedaily.com.
