When describing newly opened Thirty Eight Restaurant & Bar — located in the former space of Nami Kaze Hawaiʻi at Pier 38 — executive chef Justin Inagaki likens it to a neighborhood bistro.
“I want you to think it’s comfort food, but a little more elevated,” Inagaki says. “You’re not afraid of it; it doesn’t look intimidating, like you need to wear a suit to eat it. Most of this menu is built on the concept of sustainability within our Fresh Island Fish family.”
Thirty Eight Restaurant & Bar is currently open from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. (lunch only) from Monday to Friday, as the eatery is still in its soft opening. It features a harbor-centric menu to showcase fresh seafood, according to restaurateur and consultant Dong Dang.
“We’re trying to serve fresh seafood at a reasonable price,” he says. “When you go to the supermarket, seafood is always a premium priced item. We’re trying to make it more available, especially to the locals.”
Ordering is meant to be quick and simple — customers can go to the register, or order using a QR code at their table.
“With any restaurant, your two big expenses are labor and food,” Dang says. “We wanted to use high-quality seafood, so it was on us to operate efficiently to be able to extend the value to the customer.”
All dishes on the menu are $20 or less, and pricing was an intentional decision, according to Inagaki.
“We try to keep it affordable and approachable,” he says. “We know that our local people are suffering, not just in the high cost of living, but in this economy. That’s one of our main concepts: not just providing great food and good portions, but having something that won’t break their wallet. We want to make sure they can come back again, not just one time.”
Inagaki says he’s been in the industry for more than 15 years. He’s previously worked at restaurants like Roy’s, Alan Wong’s, Hy’s Steak House and, most recently, 916 Grill St. + ShabuZen in Waipio.
“I’m a fine dining chef actually, by trade,” Inagaki says. “I’ve led Hy’s Steak House from 2015 to 2020. I launched La Vie and Quiora with the G. Lion Group. My wheelhouse is not necessarily to be fine dining, but whatever the concept might be, we try to be as true to the concept as possible. I like to add a little fun to it, and make sure it just doesn’t look good, but it also tastes good. I also to want to be different — we don’t just want to be like everybody else.”
Start with soups, salads and appetizers like lobster bisque ($10), New England clam chowder ($8), ‘ahi tataki ($16) and chef’s fresh poke bowl ($17). The bisque is garnished with a yuzu crème fraiche, while the clam chowder includes ‘Ewa sweet corn, bacon and chopped clams.
The irresistible ‘ahi tataki features sashimi-grade seared local ahi with Maui onions, cherry tomatoes and ponzu-soy vinaigrette. The chef’s choice features a rotating selection of poke.
“It’s our spicy ‘ahi today; it’s a half pound (in the bowl),” Inagaki says. “Eventually it will change. We’re able to flex our sister company’s product. I’m all about textures, colors and execution — it has to be more of a quicker turn time, given that we’re only open for four hours (for now).”
When it comes to more unique dishes, Inagaki mentions the fish & chips ($17), which is made with beer and vodka-battered ‘ahi belly instead of a white fish, like cod. It’s served with house finadene and housemade tartar sauces.
“This one (ʻahi belly) is more fatty; it’ll stay more moist when you’re eating it,” he explains. “It’s meant to travel, so it won’t dry out. I use a cake flour and rice flour ratio, our Beer Lab beer IPA, and baking powder. The reason why I went with cake flour is because cake flour tends to be lighter than your average wheat. The rice flour tends to give more of that crunch. This is a lighter version, like a tempura.
“The finadene is actually a Chamorro sauce,” he adds. “In traditional fish and chips, you would have malt vinegar. You don’t see finadene too much on menus. It’s a take on soy vinegar; it’s like a dipping sauce.”
The lobster mac and cheese ($20) features a gourmet twist on comfort food. It features a cheesy lobster cream sauce and a buttery herb crumb crust.
“We fold our lobster bisque into it to give it more of a lobster flavor,” Inagaki says. “When you hear ‘lobster mac,’ you want to make sure you taste it. You don’t want to see lobster on a plate; you want to taste that lobster flavor throughout.”
The hamburger steak ($17) — comprising two beef patties, onions and mushroom brown gravy with white rice and tossed greens — is sure to be a local favorite. Customers craving heartier dishes can opt for the Thirty Eight burger ($18) — two beef patties topped with Thirty Eight sauce, onions, mushrooms and cheese in a taro bun — and the ‘ahi burger ($17), which features a local ‘ahi patty with spicy aioli.
“The spicy ‘ahi is torched and we have a lilikoʻi slaw on the bottom,” Inagaki says. “Every plate lunch has a toss salad instead of mac salad.”
Customers can choose from packaged desserts to-go, including chocolate flourless torte ($10), New York cheesecake ($10) and brown butter cake ($12). The goal is to eventually made desserts in-house as well, according to Inagaki.
The restaurant, which has its liquor license, currently serves beers and wines, and will eventually have cocktails.
“It’s a nice space — a nice place to unwind, relax, and have a couple drinks,” says restaurateur Khang Dang. “It’s a communal gathering spot, though not necessarily a full-service restaurant.”
While the restaurant is only open for lunch during its soft opening, customers can eventually look forward to extended hours and additional menu items.
“I’m looking forward to seeing the progression of our staff,” Inagaki says. “It’s all about culture — seeing the team grow, see them being happy and being inspired.
“For me, it’s about making people smile,” he adds. “Especially in Hawaiʻi, food is something where it’s a gathering, it brings people around, you have people talking story, it’s communal. Hearing them laugh in the dining room gives me pleasure every day.”
CONTACT
38 Restaurant & Bar
1135 N. Nimitz Hwy., Honolulu
Instagram: @thirtyeighthi
Open 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Mondays-Fridays
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Kelli Shiroma Braiotta can be reached at kelli@alohastatedaily.com.
