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<title>National Voter Registration Day Tuesday, Sep. 15</title>

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Higa headshot white shirt square

Sterling Higa

Columnists

I once took an evening flight from Maui to Honolulu. I was living on Maui then and commuting to Oʻahu for work, and I had the aisle seat next to a high school junior from Molokai, flying in to see family. We talked the way strangers do on short flights.

As the city lights came up under the wing he leaned to the window and said, “Concrete jungle.” Thirty seconds later he sighed. “They live like rats down there.”

He was not the first to feel it. The Romans suspected their towns of living off the countryside, and there was truth in it, since the town taxed the farmer and never the reverse. Thomas Jefferson wanted a republic of yeoman farmers, and the yeoman farmer has been the hero of the American story ever since, though almost nobody has met one. The myth has outlived the farmers.

Hawaiʻi is one city with a few outlying islands. The hurricanes made it plain. When Lala tore through Hawaiʻi Island and Lowell through Kauaʻi, the help came from Honolulu and from beyond Honolulu. Not much help could come from the next valley over.

The old ways are gone. The Neighbor Islands do not feed Honolulu, and they cannot feed themselves. Port, airport, university, the neurologist you fly to see — the dependence runs one direction.

Some people keep the illusion of independence going. The off-grid family has bins of rice and dry beans. The man with a full freezer and a diesel generator says he’ll be fine come the next storm.

The dependence of country on town shows on empty shelves after a disaster. But the countryside was running out before the storm. Rural Hawaiʻi has already lost its pharmacies, its specialists, its tradesmen. The roads crumble and nobody is left to fix them. Families leave for somewhere they can afford, and the ones who stay grow old. Every year these places become more dependent, not less, while insisting on the opposite.

Where was the diesel generator made? Not here; there is no manufacturing to speak of and no ore in the ground. Where did the diesel come from? Not here. And the money that bought the generator was earned in tourism, or the military, or from someone who works in one of them. The shirt on the man’s back, the rice in his bins, the power he is so proud of doing without: Imported, every bit. He is the most dependent man on the island, and he has arranged his dependence so carefully that he cannot see it.

Dependence is not a defect. It is how people were made. The gifts are scattered on purpose — one man can plumb and another can preach, one island grows coffee and another has a deep harbor — and they must work together to keep and work the earth.

Now, the young man next to me on the plane was not entirely wrong. A city can be a parasite on its countryside, and a ruling class a parasite on its people. Ancient Hawaiʻi knew this better than most. The chiefs roamed the islands, and wherever they went the commoners were called to hold feasts and bring hoʻokupu, offerings. The chiefs combined power with appetite, and the Hawaiians had a saying for it: “

” The chief is a shark that travels on land.

And a city can rot from the inside. Scripture’s first city was built by Cain, and the great ones after it — Babel, Sodom, Nineveh, Babylon — are remembered for their pride and their vices. Honolulu has Hotel Street and Waikīkī after midnight and more than one former legislator convicted of taking bribes. Nobody is obliged to pretend otherwise.

The rural contempt has two old roots: The city that takes and the city that corrupts. Neither city is imaginary.

Nor has the danger gone anywhere. A city that takes without giving is exactly what the state government in Honolulu can become. The shark goes inland now by way of new surcharges, permit delays, and Neighbor Island budgets set by committees that have never spent a night in Hāna.

The cure for the countryside’s illusion of independence is honesty about what it needs. The cure for the city’s appetite is to earn what it is given. That means doing more in office than feasting and taxing.

Still, my young friend said all this from the seat of a Boeing 717 assembled in Long Beach from parts made in Italy, South Korea, Taiwan, and Japan, and I doubt the irony would have troubled him. Cities are where trade happens. Honolulu, for all its faults, is a great one.

He was wrong. A city may be made of concrete, but it is not a jungle. Rats live in cities, but cities are made for humans — fallen yet redeemable humans, which explains both their sin and glory. When the people of Hawaiʻi are in trouble, it is to Honolulu that they turn.

The story that began in a garden does not end in one. It ends with a city coming down out of heaven, “its radiance like a most rare jewel.”

Downtown Honolulu 16x9 Large

<title>Hurricanes Lala and Lowell show Neighbor Islands depend on Honolulu</title>

A high schooler from Molokai looks down at the Honolulu lights and says, “They live like rats down there.” ASD opinion columnist Sterling Higa on why the Neighbor Islands need the city more than they’d like to admit, and what the city owes them in return.

Hurricanes Lala and Lowell show Neighbor Islands depend on Honolulu

Kelli Shiroma Braiotta Headshot

Kelli Shiroma Braiotta

Food & Dining

In May, owners Jimmy and Kim Tran of Hot Pot Heaven decided to start offering 

. The hot pot restaurant included pho, fresh spring rolls, summer rolls and papaya salad on its menu on a regular basis and, according to Kim Tran, the eatery started getting busier.

The pho started becoming so popular that the Trans decided to change the restaurant concept. 

 — which is still in the Hot Pot Heaven Kailua space on Hamakua Drive — is opening today, and it features a brand-new menu.

For its grand opening, Pho N Grindz will offer 20% off for one week (Sept. 10 to 17).

The restaurant now features authentic Vietnamese dishes and popular plate lunch plates, according to Tran. The plate lunch addition is for her husband, whom she says is “a local boy.”

“On a day that’s so hot — where maybe you don’t want pho — you might want plate lunch,” she says.

While hot pot is still her go-to dining experience, Tran says she wanted the new restaurant concept to incorporate hers and Jimmy’s favorites.

“We’re bringing you all of Kim’s favorite soups — pho, miso udon, bun Thai, wonton soup and more — and Jimmy gets his favorite grindz — garlic shrimp plate, shoyu chicken, ribs and plenty more local favorites,” the restaurant’s 

Customers will still find the eatery’s signature pho, which come with bean sprouts, basil, lime, scallions and onions. Choose from proteins like rare steak, brisket, tripe, meatball or more. Options include pho seafood ($20) — with fish fillet, shrimp, fishcake and squid — pho beef rib ($25) and a veggie pho ($18), which is vegan-friendly, according to Tran.

“We have a vegan pho that is truly vegan,” she says of the dish, which includes tofu, mushrooms, broccoli and carrots.

Diners can also still find popular appetizers — like spring rolls ($10) and summer rolls ($12) — from the eatery’s former menu.

New menu additions include the eatery’s selection of plate lunch-style rice plates, ranging from garlic chicken ($17) and braised pork spare ribs ($19) to garlic shrimp ($19) and barbecue baby back ribs ($25).

Tran encourages customers to try the Vietnamese beef stew ($23) — which includes carrots, onions and lemongrass, served with a choice of noodles or rice — and curry ($19-$21). The latter includes carrots, potatoes and onions; diners have a choice of chicken or shrimp.

Tran also notes that the restaurant also offers vegan-friendly dishes. Choose from braised vegan “scallops” (mushrooms) and bok choy ($19), tofu curry ($19), eggplant and tofu stir-fry ($19) and more.

“We have a lot of people in this community that enjoy vegan food,” Tran says.

The restaurant will be open daily from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. The 20% grand opening discount applies to both, dine-in and takeout orders, according to Tran.

Pho N Grindz owners 090926

<title>Pho N Grindz is opening in Kailua</title>

The eatery — in the former spot of Hot Pot Heaven Kailua, but under the same owners — is opening today. Instead of hot pot, the restaurant now features authentic Vietnamese cuisine and plate lunch staples. As part of its grand opening special, the biz is offering 20% off for one week.

Pho N Grindz is opening in Kailua

 just opened in Sam Sung Plaza. The new tonkatsu restaurant is located in the former space of Sushi ii, which closed in July.

The eatery features a variety of tonkatsu sets; sets include rice, shredded cabbage, and miso soup. Customers can enjoy free refills of miso soup and cabbage.

The pork loin tonkatsu ($21 for 130 grams, $25 for 180 grams) and pork tenderloin tonkatsu ($25 for four pieces) come highly recommended.

The eatery also offers a miso pork loin tonkatsu set, which is topped with the restaurant’s special miso sauce. Other options include chicken katsu sets ($21), fried shrimp set (five pieces for $25), chicken katsu-don ($23), pork katsu sandwich ($13) and fried oysters ($15). The fried oysters are one of Tonkatsu Sakazaki’s featured appetizers.

[{"type":"text","text":"Customers can upgrade their miso soup to pork soup for an additional $5."}]

The eatery’s opening special is a $9.99 pork loin cutlet rice bowl (regular price $19). The bowl comes with rice topped with pork cutlet simmered in a savory, dashi-based sauce with onions. This discounted price will be available for about three weeks.

Tonkatsu Sakazaki is also the sister restaurant of Ramen Nakamura, located in Waikīkī. Tonkatsu Sakazaki is offering a special Nakamura oxtail curry ($14) — which features a soup-style broth instead of a thicker texture — that features Ramen Nakamura’s oxtail soup. Customers can enjoy the oxtail curry on its own, dip their katsu in it, or pour the curry over rice.

The eatery will be open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and for dinner from 5 to 9 p.m.

Open from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch, 5 to 9 p.m. for dinner

Tonkatsu Sakazaki plates 090426

<title>Tonkatsu Sakazaki is now open in Honolulu</title>

The tonkatsu eatery just opened in Sam Sung Plaza. Customers can take advantage of a grand opening special — discounted $9.99 pork loin cutlet rice bowls (regular price $19) — for about three weeks. The restaurant specializes in tonkatsu, ranging from pork tenderloin to chicken katsu.

Tonkatsu Sakazaki is now open in Honolulu

[{"type":"text","text":"Kam Bowl is now open in Pearl City."}]

The restaurant opened in Times Square Shopping Center, in the former space of IHOP. The eatery 

 and re-opened in July under new ownership and under a new name, Aliʻi Diner.

At the new Pearl City restaurant, customers can expect the same signature dishes Kam Bowl was known for according to co-owner Ryder Yoshida, who says the menu is currently limited to the most popular dishes.

“It’s smaller and more simple,” Yoshida says. “We’re concentrating on getting the stuff people like before adding more things.”

Kam Bowl Pearl City did some renovations to the restaurant’s interior, such as adding new booths for seating.

“The kitchen was pretty much empty; we had to re-do the whole kitchen,” he says. “The hard part about it is the restaurant is big and the kitchen area to prepare food is small, compared to the Kalihi location.”

The menu features dishes like the eatery’s famous oxtail soup ($24.95), hamburger steak ($18.95), loco moco ($18.95) and Japanese breakfast ($18.95). The latter includes miso soup, toss salad, two eggs and a choice of mahi or salmon.

The restaurant now uses wagyu beef to make its hamburger patties, according to Yoshida.

“This is the first time we’re using wagyu beef,” he says. “We’re trying to keep prices reasonable.”

Dishes like hotcakes and sweet bread French toast are available from 7 to 11 a.m. Many plate lunch-style entrees come with white rice and a choice of toss or mac salad.

On the eatery’s opening day — Aug. 1 — regular customers from Kam Bowl’s Kalihi location were eagerly eating breakfast. Yoshida encourages diners to check out the new space.

“I was sitting in here before we opened, and people would ask, ‘Are you guys open yet?’” he says. “I kept on saying, ‘Pretty soon, pretty soon.’ Just come and try our food.”

[{"type":"text","text":"Kam Bowl Pearl City is open daily from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m."}]

98-1264 Kaahumanu St. Ste. B03, Pearl City

Kam Bowl Pearl City owner 080126

<title>Kam Bowl is open in Pearl City</title>

The eatery is now open in Times Square Shopping Center, in the former space of IHOP. Customers can look forward to signature dishes like oxtail soup, loco moco, hamburger steak and more.

Kam Bowl is open in Pearl City

Business & Tourism

 — which opened in Ward Centre about five years ago — recently soft opened in South Shore Market. The restaurant is located in the former space of Scratch Kitchen & Meatery.

Kamitoku is known for its ramen bowls made with beef bone broth, or Gyu-kotsu ramen. This style of ramen is considered to be a regional specialty from Japan’s Tottori prefecture.

While the restaurant still features different beef bone broth bowls to choose from, the eatery also added a variety of new dishes to its menu.

The crispy beef bite bowl ($15-$17) is the eatery’s version of karaage, but with a beefy twist. It features crispy rib-eye served over white rice ($15) or otoko-meshi ($17) and topped with the eatery’s signature aioli.

Customers can upgrade their entrees to otoko-meshi sets, which feature freshly cooked garlic butter rice, which boasts an umami flavor.

The wild oxtail soup ($35-$39) — which features Kamitoku’s signature beefy wild broth — comes with slow-simmered oxtail, fresh green onions and housemade garlic ginger relish. The eatery’s wagyu rib-eye katsu box ($28-$30) is also a new addition. Premium wagyu rib-eye is breaded and fried, then served over your choice of rice ($28) or otoko-meshi ($30).

Popular appetizers include spicy French fries ($7.50), deep-fried gyoza ($9.50) and Kamitoku ajitama ($8). The eatery’s signature Seabura ramen ($22.50) — which features a rich, creamy broth made with beef fat — comes highly recommended for diners looking for something unique.

The business, which is still in its soft opening phase, is currently BYOB while it’s waiting to get its liquor license. Kamitoku Ramen plans to add more exclusive dishes and drinks to its menu in the upcoming weeks.

The restaurant is currently open from 5 to 9 p.m. Mondays to Thursdays and Sundays, and from 5 to 9:30 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. The business’s grand opening is still to come; for updates, follow the restaurant on 

Open 5 to 9 p.m. Mondays to Thursdays and Sundays; 5 to 9:30 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays

Kamitoku Ramen ramen 072426

<title>Kamitoku Ramen moves from Ward Centre to South Shore Market</title>

The business — known for its beef bone broth ramen — just soft opened in the former space of Scratch Kitchen & Meatery. In addition to its popular ramen bowls, the biz also added new dishes — like wild oxtail soup and wagyu rib-eye katsu bowls — to its menu.

Kamitoku Ramen moves from Ward Centre to South Shore Market

 just launched its new happy hour, which is available daily from 4 to 6 p.m. in the eatery’s bar and lounge area.

Start with discounted beverages like liliko

i spritz ($10), a variety of martinis ($10) — choose from matcha, tropical, mango, and lychee and peach — sake specials ($12) and featured wines by the glass ($10 each).

While not part of the happy hour drink menu, the eatery also just revamped its signature cocktail line-up with new additions ($18), including Olena mamaki tea, Rabbit Island, cucumber margarita and an espresso martini.

The happy hour dishes feature half-portions of popular items from the a la carte menu. The poke nachos ($12) are a customer favorite. They feature four different chips — won ton, sweet potato, taro and shrimp chips — topped with shoyu ‘ahi, spicy mayo, yuzu crema, green onions, pickled red onions, pea tendrils, kizami nori and edamame. The dish is full of contrasting textures, which makes it especially fun to eat.

The brisket sliders ($17) are a happy hour exclusive. These housemade rolls are stuffed with barbecue brisket, pickled onions and guava barbecue sauce.

’s new Paniolo burger from the a la carte menu — which also includes brisket — these sliders are sure to please.

The coffee rib-eye steak ($20) is another popular choice and is probably one of the best deals on the menu. It’s coated with a coffee demi glace and served with an arugula salad with tarragon dressing.

If you’re looking for comforting flavors, opt for the barbecue chicken pinsa flatbread, which is topped with kiawe barbecue chicken, mozzarella cheese, parmesan, peppers, red onions and barbecue sauce.

Other happy hour dishes include a lobster roll ($17), margherita pinsa flatbread ($10), seared ‘ahi ($12), kiawe smoked pork ribs ($17), chicken wings ($12) and garlic fries.

Insider tip: Ask about the restaurant’s new secret menu, which also should be accessible via a QR code on the menu. The secret menu currently features a burrata salad ($18), burnt brisket tips ($17), cheesy bread ($12) and a bone-in beef rib platter ($85).

The latter is impressive and designed to share. The platter includes six slider buns, pickled vegetables and barbecue sauce. The bone-in beef rib is available in limited quantities; the meats are smoked in-house. The fork-tender beef is flavorful in and of itself; the sweet and tangy barbecue sauce just takes it to the next level. 

Meanwhile, the cheesy bread features a garlic sourdough bread with mozzarella and cheddar cheeses in the middle.

Guests can enjoy complimentary self-parking for 2.5 hours with restaurant validation.

Complimentary 2.5-hour self parking with restaurant validation

100 Sails happy hour 030226

100 Sails Restaurant & Bar just launched a new chef selection dinner buffet, available from 5 to 9 p.m. Mondays to Wednesdays. This buffet costs $62 per adult; instead of action stations like prime rib or sushi handrolls, it features specialty items like roasted beef tri tip, guava barbecue pork ribs, mushroom risotto and more.

100 Sails buffet cheese 021026

New weekday dinner buffet at Prince Waikīkī

The sizzling omurice — fried rice topped with an omelet and demi-glaze sauce, served on a hot skillet — is one of the most popular dishes. Happy hour runs daily from 5 to 7 p.m.

Chez Kenzo happy hour spread 011426

Budget Bites: Chez Kenzo Bar & Grill’s $9 happy hour

<title>New happy hour at Prince Waikīkī</title>

100 Sails Restaurant & Bar’s new happy hour menu is available daily from 4 to 6 p.m. in the restaurant’s bar and lounge area. Dishes include poke nachos, brisket sliders — a happy hour exclusive — coffee rib-eye steak and barbecue chicken pinsa flatbread. Also new: The eatery’s secret menu, which includes a mouthwatering bone-in beef rib platter.

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