Kailua Town Pub & Grill is home to one of Oʻahu’s only speakeasies. Tucked away within its walls — I won’t divulge everything here, for the sake of mystique — is Gaslamp, a dimly lit, intimate venue known for its handcrafted cocktails, gourmet dining experience and sophisticated atmosphere.
Unlike speakeasies solely focused on libations, this one offers an elevated menu of seafood, steaks, caviar and more. During a recent media visit, we checked out Gaslamp’s new summer menu; the speakeasy changes its menu seasonally.
The grilled Caesar salad ($23) starts things off on a light note. Waimanalo whole leaf is topped with anchovies and pepperoncini. It’s light and refreshing, and we appreciated the distinctive anchovy flavor in the dressing.
Of the new dishes we tried, the Dover sole Meuniere ($52) was a highlight. The fish was topped with crispy shallots, lemon, wild mushroom medley and asparagus. The savory, lemon butter sauce is light yet flavorful, and the preparation highlights the fish’s delicate flavors. It’s moist, flaky and absolutely a must. This dish was the first to be completely devoured by our group of four.
This isn’t your typical Bolognese. This rich, meat-based pasta gets a meaty upgrade with A5 wagyu beef belly, Calabrian chilis and basil over pappardelle. The pappardelle is perfectly cooked — a nice, slight chew, but not overdone — and the wagyu enhanced its umami flavor.
The Dutch veal chop boasts a bone-in chop served with potatoes au gratin and veal jus. It’s ideal if you want something heartier, and the savory veal jus was phenomenal. The thinly sliced potatoes au gratin featured a delicate, crispy exterior that was the perfect juxtaposition to the creamy potato layers. We couldn’t get enough of it.
While it’s not new, the “French Laundry” is one of Gaslamp’s most unique offerings. It features a stunning presentation of a dry-aged, swinging wagyu tomahawk that’s torched and carved tableside. The drippings from the wagyu fall directly into the mashed potatoes, making the side dish even more indulgent and buttery. We enjoy the smoky flavors and meaty textures — especially the slight char on the meat.
Of course, no visit to a speakeasy is complete without a cocktail. The dealer’s choice (prices vary), in which the mixologists create a custom libation based on your drink preferences, is always encouraged. This particular drink was spirit-forward with tequila and bee pollen.
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CONTACT
Gaslamp
26 Ho ‘olai St., Kailua
808-829-0867
Gaslamphi.com
Instagram: @gaslamphi
Open 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 4-10:30 p.m. Fridays-Sundays
Kelli Shiroma Braiotta can be reached at kelli@alohastatedaily.com.
