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[{"type":"text","text":"Dog discusses what he does for a living..."}]

Smile 26 1 11

<title>Daily Smile: Sunday, January 11, 2026</title>

Dog discusses what he does for a living...

Daily Smile: Sunday, January 11, 2026

 Dog discusses what he does for a living...

Arrasmith Portrait

Perry Arrasmith

Hawaii History

Columnists

Kentucky has Bourbon and Tennessee has Whiskey.

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"textStyle"}],"text":"Hawai‘i has ‘ōkolehao. "}]

The alcohol is distilled from the kī — known also as ti — root, resulting in a strong liquor comparable to rum or tequila. It was likely introduced and refined in the years and decades following 1778, when British sailors introduced the technology of distillation with iron implements to Native Hawaiians. Since then, the debate over ‘ōkolehao’s status in the Hawaiian Islands has aged for over two centuries.

Confusion surrounding the drink’s status in Hawai‘i are arriving at a new, fascinating chapter in the 2026 Legislative Session. It is inspired by a fear that the term ‘ōkolehao may be abused by out-of-state brands intent on capitalizing on the beverage. 

, have been making their way through the 2026 Legislative Session. Both measures aim to provide stricter labeling requirements for products made with ‘ōkolehao.

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"textStyle"},{"type":"bold"}],"text":"An Underground Past"}]

Hawai‘i has either been embarrassed or proud of ‘ōkolehao. It is illegal and disgraceful or legal and venerated. It is a mark of sin or a source of pride. 

Century-old newspapers, for instance, advertise the sale of "ales, wines, and liquors" while reporting on the arrest of Native Hawaiians for the distribution of ‘ōkolehao. This was largely because ‘ōkolehao was typically made in the underground, where it was untaxed and unregulated. Only the poor (often Native Hawaiian) made the beverage. A law passed in 1892 effectively criminalized its production without a $250 liquor production license (or 

 by Queen Lili‘uokalani on January 13, 1893, less than four days before the Hawaiian Monarchy’s overthrow.

However, it was also a beverage of rising class–and taste. A formative moment arrived for the beverage in 1889, when a smuggled bottle reportedly won a 

 for the Kingdom of Hawai‘i at the 1889 Universal Exposition in Paris. 

Even though it was ironically all-but-illegal to produce, political officials at the time like Lorrin Thurston and Sanford Dole were reportedly keen on procuring bottles for themselves, according to the smuggler, Eben P. Low.

Low, a paniolo from Hawai‘i Island, had managed to win the medal on the Kingdom’s behalf. Nearly 50 years later, Low still had a bottle of his 1889 ‘ōkolehao. 

In the early years of statehood, Hawai‘i attempted to encourage the development of locally based alcoholic beverages, enacting a measure (

) that exempted ‘ōkolehao and pineapple wine from the state excise tax on wholesale liquor sales.

The measure’s constitutionality ultimately earned ‘ōkolehao some infamy at the 

. The U.S. Supreme Court ultimately determined that the State’s preferential treatment of ‘ōkolehao to the detriment of out-of-state products violated the U.S. Commerce Clause. During the whole debate, ‘ōkolehao was recognized as a local brandy. 

With ‘ōkolehao’s steady return, there is a push to rectify this mis-labeling of sorts. 

As of this writing, at least three distillers produce ‘ōkolehao across three different islands. 

 operates out of Kilauea, Kaua‘i. Meanwhile, I continue to spy bottles of ‘ōkolehao from 

 of Honolulu, O‘ahu distributed at Costco and Safeway. Perhaps the most dogged producer, however, is Ola Brew of Hawai‘i Island. 

Ola Brew operates from Hilo, is another such venue. According to founder Philip Fukushima, Iron Bottom Spirits of Kailua-Kona also aims to begin production shortly. 

On February 13, House Bill 2475 had received a hearing before the House Committee on Economic Development & Technology. The measure was co-introduced by nearly every member of Hawai‘i Island’s delegation in the State House. 

It also ultimately earned the support of two members of the Hawai‘i County Council: Dr. Holeka Goro Inaba (the Council Chair) and Rebecca Villegas.

Among the proponents of the measure is Nahealani Breeland, a co-founder of Ola Brewing Company of Hilo, Hawai‘i Island. Breeland appeared in-person before the February 13 hearing. 

In a vein similar to Kona Coffee, Breeland believes it is important that the State of Hawai‘i formally protect ‘ōkolehao as a beverage uniquely tied to cultivated kī leaf production and distillation in the islands.

“Because ‘ōkolehao has never had a clear legal definition,” Breeland explained, “it has been diluted, mis-represented, [and] commercialized in ways that have erased agriculture–our agricultural and cultural foundation.” 

In April 2021, Ola Brew debuted their ‘ōkolehao at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition. “We didn’t have a bottle, so naturally we entered our ‘ōkolehao in a plastic jug with some blue construction tape on it saying, ‘FDA-approved. Please enjoy.’”

Like the Paris Exposition in 1889, Ola Brew’s ‘ōkolehao attracted international attention in San Francisco in 2021, 

 two medals at the competition. The traction has been enough for Ola Brew to pursue expanded operations and greater protections for ‘ōkolehao.

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"textStyle"},{"type":"bold"}],"text":"Is ‘ōkolehao Hawaiian?"}]

Marshall Fawley, an attorney with Lehrman Beverage Law (a firm based out of Virginia), is presently representing Ola Brew as it confronts many of the hurdles associated with alcohol production and protections at the state and federal levels. 

At the February 13 hearing, Fawley shared that his firm continues to petition the U.S. federal government to recognize ‘ōkolehao as a unique class of alcohol. Currently, the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax Trade Bureau (TTB) regulates alcohol production in the United States. 

Recognizing ‘ōkolehao as a beverage uniquely produced in the State of Hawai‘i could result in added federal pressure. Currently Fawley tracks products that have applied for labeling before TTB as ‘okolehao. Standards run wild and are inconsistent. 

Since 2015, Fawley estimates that nine products have applied for labeling as ‘ōkolehao. “Several are described as rums. Some are just described as spirits. One is even a blend of bourbon, whiskey, rum, and spirits distilled from cane and ti roots.” 

Fawley argues that a clear, state-based definition of ‘ōkolehao can bring some stability to the market. “When you have a product that is unique, is authentic to a specific place, and has clear definitions so consumers know what they’re getting, they’re more likely to purchase that product than a product that they really don’t know.” 

At least one international producer of ‘ōkolehao, Alexander Molyneaux of the United Kingdom, cautions that ‘ōkolehao itself is an international beverage. “ʻŌkolehao’s heritage is rooted in a centuries-old Pacific cultural exchange between British and Polynesian communities, encompassing but not limited to Hawaiʻi,” Molyneaux contends. 

To his point, the British production of ‘okolehao was a common across Polynesia. However, that does not give a non-Hawai‘i company the free license to use the Hawaiian branding to create products that bear no relation to Hawai‘i’s products, farms, and businesses. 

It is a dilemna that has already played out with Macademia and Coffee production. Products with little to no relation to Hawai‘i still invoked Hawai‘i to sell their products without providing any economic benefit to Hawai‘i businesses. 

The logistics of regulating ‘ōkolehao’s production and labeling still face logistical hurdles. So far, the Department of Agriculture and Biosecurity has publicly supported this measure. However, it has requested that the legislation provide one full-time equivalent position for a Measurement Standards Inspector (whose pay shall be $65,000). As their testimony explains, this person shall oversee the development of inspection processes and product regulation. 

On Feburary 17, Senate Bill 3248 passed out of the Senate Committee on Hawaiian Affairs without any in-person testimony. Both measures, for now, are alive. 

‘Okolehao may get more hearings in the future.

Hawai‘i Island’s farmers, elected officials, and existing ‘ōkolehao producers are especially invested in these measures. 

"If we wait,” Breeland warns, “history shows us what happens." 

Ki bush Getty Images 150358245 Large

<title>‘Ōkolehao gets a hearing (or two)</title>

Modern-day local distillers of ‘ōkolehao, the Hawaiian spirit distilled from ki plant roots, are before the Legislature this session, looking for the sort of legal protections afforded to such local products such as Kona coffee, in competition with outside brands trying to capitalize on the name. It's the latest chapter in Hawai‘i's 200-year on-again, off-again love affair with what has been called Hawai‘i's brandy or moonshine at different times. Here's a look at its colorful past — King David Kalakaua loved it, Queen Lili‘uokalani tried to curtail it — and the present-day quest to define and preserve ‘ōkolehao as a uniquely Hawai‘i product.

‘Ōkolehao gets a hearing (or two)

Stephanie Salmons Headshot

Stephanie Salmons

Real Estate

Ward Village — Howard Hughes' 60-acre master-planned community located between Downtown Honolulu and Waikīkī — 

has welcomed its newest residents to its newest tower, Ulana Ward Village.

Construction on Ulana, Ward Village’s eighth tower, began in 

. Its opening on Monday adds to the island’s housing inventory 697 workforce units for households earning between 100% and 140% of the area median income.

“All 697 residences were pre-sold to first-time kama‘āina homebuyers under the HCDA [Hawai‘i Community Development Authority] 

, which supports moderate-income working individuals and families who do not qualify for traditional subsidized housing,” an announcement from Ward Village on Monday noted.

Designed by AHL, Ulana — a name that comes from the Hawaiian word meaning to plait or braid — offers studio, one-, two- and three-bedroom units, with high-end finishes; full-height windows; and views of the ocean, mountain and city skyline, according to the announcement.

Meanwhile, interiors by Honolulu-based InForm Design, Inc. include stainless steel appliances, porcelain tile floors and quartz counter tops, among other features, the announcement states. Art by Hawai‘i-based artists and inspired by the word “ulana” can also be found throughout the property, Ward Village says.

Amenities include surfboard storage, barbecue cabanas, a dog park and a front lawn that leads into Ka La‘i o Kukuluāe‘o

. The tower also has 6,000 square feet of ground-floor retail space, the announcement noted.

“The opening of Ulana Ward Village marks a transformative moment for Honolulu, especially for first-time homebuyers who now have the opportunity to own a home that reflects the quality, design, amenities and lifestyle for which Ward Village is known,” said Doug Johnstone, president of the Hawai‘i Region and National Condominium Development for Howard Hughes Communities, said in a statement. “Ulana strengthens our commitment to creating a truly inclusive community that continues to redefine urban island living.”

To mark the milestone, Ward Village donated $120,000 to six local nonprofits: After-School All-Stars Hawai‘i, American Cancer Association Honolulu Hope Lodge, Center for Tomorrow’s Leaders, Hawai‘i HomeOwnership Center, KCAA Muriel Preschool and KUPU.

Ward Village has sold out its first eight mixed-use residential towers: Waiea, Anaha, Ae‘o, Ke Kilohana, ‘A‘ali‘i, Kō‘ula, Victoria Place and Ulana Ward Village.

New residential buildings under construction or in development at Ward Village include The Park Ward Village, Kalae, The Launiu Ward Village, Melia Ward Village, and ‘Ilima Ward Village.

The developer broke ground on The Launiu, its 11th residential tower, 

, and provided Aloha State Daily with an update of its ongoing work at that time.

, located between residential towers Victoria Place, which 

, and is bordered by Auahi Street on one side and Ala Moana Boulevard on the other.

A $17.8 million elevated walkway connecting Victoria Ward Park Makai to Ala Moana Beach Park and Kewalo Basin 

For the latest news of Hawai‘i, sign up 

16 Ulana Ward Village courtesy of Ward Village

<title>Eighth residential tower opens in Ward Village</title>

All 697 residences in Ulana Ward Village were pre-sold to first-time kama’āina homebuyers under the Hawai‘i Community Development Authority's Reserved Housing program.

Eighth residential tower opens in Ward Village

Katie Helland Headshot

Katie Helland

Arts & Entertainment

Molokai resident Eric DeVine, the owner of DeVine Guitars and ʻUkuleles, started building instruments after his plane was grounded in the terrorist attacks on September 11, 2001.

Today, he builds guitars and ʻukulele with materials such as koa, mahogany and Brazilian rosewood with inlay that includes opals, black coral and emeralds. His instruments start at $7,500 for a concert ʻukulele, with additional charges for inlay and wood upgrades. Finished instruments feature things such as a 

[{"type":"text","marks":[{"type":"textStyle"}],"text":"Many feature opals."}]

“It's really pretty stuff, and it's available in just about every color as well, so there's a lot of freedom in using that material,” DeVine told Aloha State Daily. “The neat thing about the opal over shell, like abalone and mother of pearl, is that opal catches the light in a far different way. ... It will collect light from all sides and project it.”

DeVine will share how he selects wood for his instruments at 10 a.m. on Saturday, July 19, in the next Builder’s Spotlight, an ongoing series that features ʻukulele makers across the state. The conversations are hosted by Kauaʻi musician Kimo Hussey and Hawaiʻi State Archives, which is part of the state Department of Accounting and General Services. 

This week, the Builder’s Spotlight will also feature ʻukulele player Mika Kane, who will demonstrate some of the concepts DeVine describes. The event will also have six ʻukulele he built, which are worth approximately $100,000, according to DAGS representatives.

A previous Builder's Spotlight highlighted the work of 

, who runs the Waiʻanae-based company Pahu Kani 

 and makes instruments that incorporate everything from seashells to parts of kitchen countertops. 

DeVine grew up in Washington, in a family that worked in construction and valued music. When he was about 20 years old, he moved to Hawaiʻi Island. He was visiting his family in Washington when the 9/11 attacks temporarily grounded planes across the nation. Tourism in Hawaiʻi had been at a standstill, so DeVine decided to stay a year on the Mainland. During that time, he signed up for a guitar-making class offered by a retired woodworker at a community college.

“That was kind of it,” he said with a laugh. “It became really clear that's what I wanted to do. I finished that guitar, and then immediately started building three more.”

Eventually, DeVine moved back to Hawaiʻi, where he met Hussey, who saw a few of his instruments at a kids ʻukulele contest at Hula Grill Kāʻanapali.

“He saw them, and he put in a custom order,” DeVine said. “It was my very first custom order.”

Since then, DeVine has built at least a dozen instruments for Hussey over the years.

Today, DeVine creates about 15 to 20 instruments per year, although he plans to increase production so he can double or triple output. He ships instruments across the world.

“It’s interesting because the hot markets have changed over the years,” DeVine said.

In the early years of the business, about 80% of the instruments were shipped to Japan, he said. When the exchange rate became less favorable, the company shipped more instruments to other countries, including Thailand and China.

“Now it’s picking up a bit more in Europe,” he said.

The result of this international demand is musicians around the world own instruments he designed in Hawaiʻi.

“It's kind of cool knowing that there's little towns in Germany that have a number of my instruments in them,” he said. “That's kind of a funny thought.”

 featuring DeVine at 10 a.m. on Saturday, July 19. After the event, the video will be posted to the 

Hawaiʻi State Archives’ YouTube Channel

For the latest news of Hawai‘i, sign up 

DeVine Guitars and ʻUkulele

<title>Molokai luthier Eric DeVine to share building process</title>

The owner of DeVine Guitars and ʻUkuleles picked up the profession of building instruments after taking a community college class on the Mainland. Today, his custom guitars and ʻukulele designs feature woods from around the world, along with opals, emeralds and black coral.

Daily Smile: Sunday, January 11, 2026

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