Chef Jason Yamaguchi has been working with Latin flavors for the last “18 to 25 years,” he says. Yamaguchi — who owns Konpa, a restaurant in the heart of Corona Del Mar in California — is no stranger to Nikkei, or Peruvian-Japanese fusion, cuisine.
“It’s become not only a culture for me; it’s something very comfortable,” he says. “When we opened Roy’s (restaurant) in 1999 in Fashion Island (Newport Beach), 90% of the back of the house was either Costa Rican, Peruvian or Mexican. That’s when I was learning; I was getting encapsulated in culture and cuisine. I learned how to make chilaquiles when I was 15 years old.”
Yamaguchi opened Konpa last September. The eatery’s concept is inspired by both, his travels throughout Peru and his Japanese heritage. Most recently, Yamaguchi became the consulting chef at Ki Club and started a new menu focused on Nikkei cuisine; he splits his time between Hawaiʻi and California.
Many of the new dishes at Ki Club are influenced by Konpa, according to Yamaguchi.
“The flavor profiles are definitely inspired (by Konpa),” he says. “It was apparent to me that this was something that needed to be live in Hawaiʻi. It’s something that’s more relevant to the culture.
“This food is supposed to be simple, not complex,” Yamaguchi adds. “We just want good food in Hawaiʻi; that’s our primary focus.”
Even if they’re never experienced Peruvian cuisine before, customers will recognize local-style elements on the menu. The lobster linguine ($42) — one of the few remaining dishes from Ki Club’s previous menu — features a savory uni butter, Kahuku sweet corn, Thai basil and tobiko. The ‘ahi pizza ($21) comprises a flour tortilla topped with tenderized sashimi, yuzu mayo, shaved sweet onions, fried capers and truffle oil.
Most dishes on the menu are made for sharing. If you love sashimi, start with the tiradito de ‘ahi ($13). Tiradito is a Peruvian raw fish dish that features thinly sliced seafood. Big Island ‘ahi is topped with bubu arare, honey dashi and Kizami nori, and is served in a creamy aji verde sauce.
The ensalada kani ($16), or crab salad, is also highly recommended. The dish features hearty chunks of Samoan crab with Fuji apple foam and crowned with daikon sprouts and squid ink tuile. We’re told the delicate tuile is made to resemble black coral.
The dish is refreshing overall; the creamy chunks of crab are balanced nicely by the crispy tuile.
If Yamaguchi had to recommend one dish from his menu, it would be the lomo saltado. Traditionally, it features fries topped with thinly sliced beef steak that’s stir-fried. This version features aged wagyu served with potatoes, a sweet-and-savory sauce and blistered tomatoes with an egg on top.
“It’s kind of a reconceptualized version of the lomo,” he says.
Similar to some Nikkei-style restaurants in Peru, the nigiri here features a potato starch base instead of rice. The base is soft and slightly chewy — reminiscent of gnocchi — and each piece features a proportional fish-to-starch ratio.
The vibrant, creamy aji Amarillo sauce atop the kanpachi adds a slight spice. Meanwhile, the ‘ahi boasts a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Both nigiri come with wasabi on the side.
The croquette Cordero ($12) feature three fried fritters stuffed with kakuni pork, curry de papas — a potato curry — and are topped with Mizuna chimichurri. The chimichurri sauce is slightly spicy, but gives the dish an herbaceous flavor.
Desserts include picarones ($13) — a classic Peruvian treat comprising sweet potato and kabocha squash donuts — miso crème brulee ($12) and pina borracha ($13). The latter features a coconut frangipane cake with coconut lime mousse, banana lilikoʻi curd and pisco roasted pineapples.
“The drunken pineapple dessert is something that is very popular in Peru,” Yamaguchi says. “It’s only been a couple weeks (since this menu launched), but this has become our own local favorite here.”
The restaurant’s cocktail menu is also full of new, creative libations. Options include sake spritz ($14) — comprising sparkling sake, elderflower and yuzu — pisco sour ($16) with habanero bitters; Kyoto nights ($16), made with hojicha rum; and margarita de tamarindo ($14). The latter features Reposado tequila, lime and chamoy, with a tajin rim.
Stay tuned — the eatery will be featuring a series of pop-ups in the upcoming months.
“This is something really cool and new; every month, we’re going to do an activation,” Yamaguchi says. “It’s all going to be Nikkei-focused.”
CONTACT
Ki Club
1731 Kalākaua Ave. Ste. C, Honolulu
Instagram: @kiclubhawaii
Open for dinner from 4 to 9:30 p.m. Wednesdays to Sundays
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Kelli Shiroma Braiotta can be reached at kelli@alohastatedaily.com.
