Neon, its birth and death in Hawai‘i

Bright, colorful neon signs debuted in the Islands nearly a century ago, with literal Hollywood glamor — the Waikīkī, Kūhiō and other movie palaces used them. Restaurants and small businesses of all kinds went for neon, too. Over time, they became associated with dive bars and the bad side of town. ASD history writer DeSoto Brown revisits and the highs and lows of this distinctly 20th-century form of advertising.

DB
DeSoto Brown

August 14, 20267 min read

1955 Honolulu neon signs
A montage of neon signs in Honolulu in 1955: Golden Duck Chop Suey on McCully Street near King Street, the Wagon Wheel restaurant on Kalākaua Avenue and ‘Olohana Street, and the Lau Yee Chai restaurant on Kūhiō Avenue in Waikīkī. (Irving Rosen, Bishop Museum Archives)

There was a time when neon signs were all over the place in Honolulu, and indeed pretty much all over the world. Today they are rare to nearly nonexistent, and they mostly evoke memories of the middle decades of the 20th century. What is neon? What made it popular, and why did it go away?

First, scientifically, neon is a rare gas which is naturally present in a small amount in earth’s atmosphere; it was first identified as an element in 1898. A French inventor, Georges Claude, discovered that if pure neon gas enclosed in an airtight glass enclosure was electrified, it would give off a bright orange-red glow. In 1912 Claude’s company, using this technology, began manufacturing the first neon advertising signs. (Although known just as “neon signs” they did, in fact, use other gases as well to produce different colors.) After coming into use in France, the first such electric signs were displayed in the USA in the early 1920s (said to specifically have been by a Los Angeles car dealership in 1923), and Americans immediately took to these amazing and striking new lights that soon would dramatically alter downtown streets by night.

1928 ad for neon signs
The first advertisement for neon signs in Hawai‘i, which appeared in the Honolulu Star-Bulletin on February 16, 1928. (Newspapers.com)

Initially, the Claude Neon company registered patents in the United States for specific processes that they used in their manufacturing process. From this fact they implied that they alone were the only authorized makers of neon signs and that all competitors were potentially in legal violation of their patents. In Honolulu, as neon was first promoted to customers in 1928-1929, two competing sign companies (with confusingly similar names) that represented two manufacturers mildly battled about this in their ads. The Electric Shop, licensed by Claude Neon through a California company, stated the former “controls the neon sign patents in America” and that customers must “Beware of Imitations.” Meanwhile the Electric Supply Company, agent for QRS Neon, said it would protect customers from claims of patent infringement if any such arose.

The Electric Shop was the first to offer neon signs in Hawaii, but under cumbersome restrictions. Such signs were not sold to customers but only could be leased for three years, requiring monthly payments, with the option to extend the lease at half price after that. Meanwhile the Electric Supply Co. boasted that it sold signs outright, which probably was more attractive to buyers. The Electric Shop started things off in a big way in February 1928 by installing 33 neon signs on both Standard Oil gas stations (13 of them) and Shell stations (20 out of the 88 then on O‘ahu). The latter were said to “sparkle with beautiful Neon signs by night” in a newspaper ad on May 1, 1928. By July of the following year, some of the Honolulu businesses with neon included the Benson Smith Drug Store, Manufacturer’s Shoes, Hub Clothing, Henry May & Co. groceries, and two of the Consolidated Amusements movie theaters. By the 1930s, the latter would be adding significant amounts of neon to their theaters’ marquees and facades.

neon sign montage
Neon signs for movie theaters (the Hawai‘i and the Kapahulu) and Honolulu’s two commercial radio stations (KGU and KGMB) are joined by other businesses in this photo montage created between 1934 and 1937. (N. R. Farbman, Bishop Museum Archives)
Hawaii Theatre marquee
The Hawai‘i Theater had, and still has, the largest single display of neon in the Hawaiian Islands. This marquee was added to the original 1922 building during a remodeling in 1936; this photo is from ten years later. The Hawai‘i, still with this marquee, has survived to today as a performing arts center that no longer exclusively shows films. (Ray Jerome Baker, Bishop Museum Archives)
Waikiki Theatre neon sign
The 1936 Waikīkī Theater used comparatively little neon, confining it to the vertical tower seen in the center of this view from the late 1940s. (DeSoto Brown Collection)
Hilo Theater neon sign
The Hilo Theater was a landmark of that city, situated as it was in a prominent location on Kamehameha Avenue, the main downtown street. It utilized neon to architecturally illuminate its facade in addition to the large letters of its name. The Hilo opened in 1940 but closed permanently only twenty years later after the damage caused by the catastrophic 1960 tsunami. This photo was taken June 20 or 21, 1954. (DeSoto Brown Collection)
Kuhio Theater neon sign
The Kūhiō Theater, on the corner of Kūhiō Avenue and Kālaimoku Street in Waikīkī, was nearing completion at the start of World War II in December 1941. However it didn’t open until July 1945 with two sides of its frontage liberally illuminated by quantities of neon tubing, as seen here in January 1954. Like nearly every other historic cinema building in the Hawaiian Islands, the Kūhiō has long since been demolished. (Laurence Hata, Bishop Museum Archives)
Waikiki Bowling Lanes neon sign
The Waikīkī Bowling Lanes opened in 1941 on Kalākaua Avenue on a site which is now part of a public park on Kūhiō Beach. In this late 1940s photo, above the lettering on the facade facing the street is a separate two-sided sign advertising Orange Crush soda on the roof. (DeSoto Brown Collection)

Into the 1960s, neon would be a growth industry locally. For sign companies, neon could be financially lucrative since the fragile glass tubes that created the colorful glows required constant care and maintenance. Not only could these be broken, either by mistake or intentionally by vandals, they also tended to gradually flicker or go out completely through damaged electrical connections. Signs that blinked in successive patterns would eventually go out of whack as well. And since neon was almost always mounted high up on poles or the fronts of buildings, intentionally out of reach of the public, servicing it required climbing ladders or using other mechanical means of getting to it.

Auto Glass neon sign
This design of this sign, photographed in Honolulu in 1968, suggests it might have been fabricated in the 1930s although Art Deco motifs continued in use for signs for years after that decade. Clearly visible here is the substantial two-sided metal structure with painted surfaces that made the sign’s lettering visible for daylight viewing. Inside was the wiring to supply electricity to the glass tubing that had been bent to form letters when it was heated to the point of melting, along with a transformer to increase the electric power. This heavy, cumbersome contraption had to be mounted with adequate support, high above the street. (Alan L. Brown)

All this trouble meant that customers increasingly began to choose cheaper and less problematic signs made from plastic panels illuminated from behind by fluorescent light bulbs. And as these replaced neon, the exacting technique of bending the thin glass tubes into the required shapes of letters or other designs by holding them over a very hot flame like a bunsen burner was gradually lost by the experts who once had done this work.

Club Pago Pago photo folder cover
The cover of a photo folder from Club Pago Pago in Honolulu shows a photo of its illuminated neon sign. Customers who had their pictures taken while in the club would receive such photos in a folded paper cover like this. (DeSoto Brown Collection)
1954 ad for Luminous Neon Sign company, Honolulu
This 1954 telephone directory advertisement for the Luminous Neon Signs company in Honolulu shows some of their eye-catching creations. Top left: The Kapi‘olani Drive In at Ala Moana and Ena Road featured this complex electric tableau of a hula dancer and ‘ukulele player, each of which blinked through three positions, with a smiling sun above them in the word “Kapi‘olani.” Below that, the Likelike Drive In sign still stands today on Ke‘eaumoku Street even though the restaurant itself closed in 2020. Top center: The Brown Derby nightclub on Nu‘uanu Avenue specialized in live jazz music. It had the same name as a famous establishment in Hollywood that often hosted movie star customers. Bottom right: Fran’s Drive In was only in business for several years at Ala Moana Boulevard and Ena Road in Waikīkī before it was replaced by Tops Coffee Shop in 1956. (Bishop Museum Library)
All Star Drive In sign
The large sign of the All Star Drive In at 2334 South King Street showed how businesses and sign companies pushed the boundaries of the loosely-enforced sign laws in the 1950s in Honolulu. Listing prices in neon was a questionable practice since the numbers would change sooner rather than later, making the lettering obsolete. (Irving Rosen, Bishop Museum Archives)
Heiwado Jewelers sign
It was very common for small businesses to use neon signs like these, suspended from beneath sidewalk canopies. Heiwado Jewelers and the Aloha Curio Store were located in the Japanese Mercantile Association building on King Street across from ‘A‘ala Park, downtown. This photo dates from 1952. (Bishop Museum Archives)

During the 1930s neon was mostly perceived as being a colorful and lively part of urban areas, but by the late 1940s its reputation began to slip. In detective novels and Hollywood’s famous “film noir” crime dramas, neon instead began to symbolize the sleazy parts of cities where dangerous things happened and bad guys ran wild. In Hawaii specifically, neon began to be criticized in the 1950s. Don Beachcomber, restauranteur and eventual developer of the International Market Place, advocated that all neon be banished from Waikīkī since Kalākaua Avenue was “already taking on the aspects of any mainland street at night.” A visiting ad agency executive from Minnesota warned “... for heaven’s sake, don’t make [Hawai‘i] a neon paradise and over-commercialize it." A visitor from Connecticut wrote in a newspaper letter in 1956: “Everywhere neon signs! What has happened to the people of Hawai‘i that such desecration is permitted?” But at the same time a spokesman for a group of neon dealers countered that such signs “tend to aid crime prevention” (??) and that “many tourists have inquired why Honolulu doesn’t have huge sign displays like New York’s Times Square or Florida’s Miami Beach.” (Dubious).

Swing Club neon sign
By the 1940s in American popular culture, blinking neon signs had come to have a negative connotation of sleazy downtown streets. The Swing Club on Hotel Street, seen here in 1958, unfortunately exemplifies that idea. (Laurence Hata, Bishop Museum Archives)
neon signs Hotel Street, Honolulu, 1954
Two signs on Hotel Street in 1954 are examples of how many people thought neon symbolized the “bad” part of town. Notice that the letters “TAT” are dark in the word “TATTOOING," which was a common type of breakdown in neon signs when the electric current stopped running through sections of the glass tubing. (Laurence Hata, Bishop Museum Archives)

In the end, it wasn’t a bad reputation that brought neon’s reign to an end; it was just cost, fragility and changing technology. A revival of interest and appreciation for neon began in the 1970s but this of itself was not enough to keep its use at the level of decades past. The incredibly specialized training necessary to bend the glass tubing into complex shapes stopped and those capable of doing it died off, and eventually LEDs replaced it with equally bright colors and even more changing patterns. While neon will, it’s hoped, always survive in some fashion, never again will Hawaiian skies be as widely lit by its glow as in the 20th century.

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Authors

DB

DeSoto Brown

DeSoto Brown is the historian and the curator for the Archives at Bishop Museum, where he's been employed for 40 years. In addition to working closely with the numerous treasures in Bishop Museum Archives, he's also accumulated a very large collection of Hawai‘i paper ephemera since the 1970s. DeSoto has authored a variety of books and articles for different publications; his titles include "Hawai‘i Recalls: Selling Romance to America," "Aloha Waikīkī," "Hawai‘i Goes To War: Life In Hawai‘i From Pearl Harbor to Peace," "Hawai‘i at Play: Images of a Bygone Era," "The Art of the Aloha Shirt," and "Surfing: Images From Bishop Museum Archives." He has also participated in exhibits for Bishop Museum and other institutions. He has been a regular commentator on ThinkTech Hawai‘i's online programs for 10 years, and even hosted his own radio show, "Melodies of Paradise", from 1975 to 1980.